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Simplify the wine choices for Thanksgiving by offering a light white and red with the appetizers, then a full-bodied white and red with the main course. For this all-American holiday, consider an all-California wine list.

For the Starters

A crisp, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc: the melony 2004 Hall or the vivid 2004 Voss Vineyards.

A gently tannic Pinot Noir full of fresh cherry-berry flavors: the lively 2004 Three Thieves Circle K Ranch or the velvety 2004 Castle Rock Reserve.

For the Main Course

A full-bodied Chardonnay: the silky 2003 Roessler Cellars Dutton Ranch or the lusciously spicy 2003 Talley Vineyards Estate from California's Arroyo Grande Valley.

A juicy, not-too-tanic Petite Sirah: The 2003 Amphora Mounts Vineyard, full of black-raspberry flavor, or the intense, boysenberry-rich 2002 T-Vine Cellars.
—Ray Isle