In Calcutta we were introduced to this princely rice, which has a delicate, somewhat sweet flavor. Govindobhog is a long-grain white rice on a miniature scale, like a baby basmati. If you come across it, buy plenty, then enjoy it as an everyday plain rice or as an alternative to basmati in Chelo, a delicious Persian pilaf.

To Cook: 1. Put 2 cups of the rice in a medium bowl and cover with cold water. Rub the rice and swirl it with your hand, then drain. Repeat 3 or 4 times or until the water is clear. Drain well.

2. Bring 10 cups of water to a vigorous boil in a large saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon salt and sprinkle in the rice. Return the water to a rolling boil, stirring occasionally. Boil until the rice is just barely cooked through but still firm, 6 to 8 minutes.

3. Drain the rice in a sieve and immediately return it to the pot. Cover with a cotton cloth and a tight-fitting lid and let the rice stand off the heat for 15 minutes to steam and firm up. Gently stir the rice to break up any clumps.

(MAKES ABOUT 6 1/2 CUPS)