Many of Paris's newest hangouts are nixing gilded French style in favor of white walls, psychedelia and menus of tuna carpaccio and Parmesan-arugula salad. But some of the city's old-time gastronomic traditions are making a comeback. Since so many venerable Paris bistros disappear every year, it's heartening that superchef Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse, owner of the iconic L'Ami Louis, have saved Aux Lyonnais. Without touching a single rose-garland tile, they've managed to make this turn-of-the-century bouchonthe Lyonnais term for bistroseem new. Ducasse resurrects many sacrosanct foods, such as sabodet, a pork head-cheese sausage, which he slices paper-thin and serves with tender greens. And he uses crayfish not only as a garnish for quenelles Nantua (creamy fish dumplings) but also as an aromatic flavoring for shirred eggs (32 Rue Saint-Marc; 011-33-1-42-96-65-04). Legrand Filles et Fils, a wine shop in a grocery that opened in 1880, has added a new bar à vins. Sample a glass of wine from a small producer like Jean Orliac in the Languedoc and order a snack from the menu, which is short but full of discoveries: vintage sardines from Rödel, smoked wild trout, and a rhubarb tart from stellar baker Eric Kayser (12 Galerie Vivienne; 011-33-1-42-60-07-12). Around the Rue de Buci market, fruit-and-vegetable, meat and fish stalls are surrendering to shops where you can pick up the same artisanal cheeses, truffles and wines served at the best restaurants in Paris. The newest addition is Da Rosa, which has whole rooms devoted to olive oils, charcuterie and spices. Have one of the cured hams wrapped to take home, or eat itor anything else in the shopon the spot (62 Rue de Seine; 011-33-1-40-51-00-09).
- KITCHEN & HOME