My F&W
quick save (...)

Restaurants | Paris News

Many of Paris's newest hangouts are nixing gilded French style in favor of white walls, psychedelia and menus of tuna carpaccio and Parmesan-arugula salad. But some of the city's old-time gastronomic traditions are making a comeback. Since so many venerable Paris bistros disappear every year, it's heartening that superchef Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse, owner of the iconic L'Ami Louis, have saved Aux Lyonnais. Without touching a single rose-garland tile, they've managed to make this turn-of-the-century bouchon—the Lyonnais term for bistro—seem new. Ducasse resurrects many sacrosanct foods, such as sabodet, a pork head-cheese sausage, which he slices paper-thin and serves with tender greens. And he uses crayfish not only as a garnish for quenelles Nantua (creamy fish dumplings) but also as an aromatic flavoring for shirred eggs (32 Rue Saint-Marc; 011-33-1-42-96-65-04). Legrand Filles et Fils, a wine shop in a grocery that opened in 1880, has added a new bar à vins. Sample a glass of wine from a small producer like Jean Orliac in the Languedoc and order a snack from the menu, which is short but full of discoveries: vintage sardines from Rödel, smoked wild trout, and a rhubarb tart from stellar baker Eric Kayser (12 Galerie Vivienne; 011-33-1-42-60-07-12). Around the Rue de Buci market, fruit-and-vegetable, meat and fish stalls are surrendering to shops where you can pick up the same artisanal cheeses, truffles and wines served at the best restaurants in Paris. The newest addition is Da Rosa, which has whole rooms devoted to olive oils, charcuterie and spices. Have one of the cured hams wrapped to take home, or eat it—or anything else in the shop—on the spot (62 Rue de Seine; 011-33-1-40-51-00-09).
—Jane Sigal

Published February 2003
You Might Also Like

Comments

Add A Comment

    Add a Comment

    See our terms
    You must be logged in to comment. or
    advertisement
    The Dish
    Receive delicious recipes and smart wine advice 4x per week in this e-newsletter.
    The Wine List Weekly pairing plus best bottles to buy.
    F&W Daily One sensational dish served fresh every day.
    American Express Publishing ("AEP") may use your email address to send you account updates and offers that may interest you. To learn more about the ways we may use your email address and about your privacy choices, read the AEP Privacy Statement.
    How we use your email address
    advertisement
    Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

    Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.