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Restaurant | Sugar Fix - Sugar, Chicago

"My five-year-old son can't believe I really opened a place where you don't have to eat your steak and peas before dessert," says Jerry Suqi, co-owner of Sugar, the new Chicago lounge that celebrates all things sweet. Designed by Suhail (the creator of Chicago's MOD restaurant and MTV's Real World Chicago house), the club gives off a multi-sensory sugar buzz: From plastic ribbon-candy tables and chocolate-bar banquettes to honey-beehive light fixtures and sucrose-molecule drapery, it's packed with clever details. But it's not a place to bring your children, if only because so many of the items on pastry chef Christine McCabe Tentori's lengthy dessert menu are paired with dessert wines and spirits. A crème brûlée brightened by a hit of fresh passion fruit and stacked with slices of roasted pineapple and crunchy kataifi gets partnered with Sauternes. A trio of warm chocolate cake, chocolate pot de crème and chocolate sorbet is matched with a choice of Banyuls Vin Doux Naturel (a sweet fortified dessert wine from France) or Lindemans Framboise raspberry beer from Belgium. The menu is full of temptations, though the wording can get a bit syrupy: In a dessert called The Quince, the fruit is roasted and paired with cider soup and an apple granité. The description? "A Machiavellian soup d'état" (108 W. Kinzie St.; 312-822-9999).
-Lisa Futterman

Published March 2003
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