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Restaurant Report | Son of Taillevent


If there is an archetypal temple of gastronomy, it is Taillevent in Paris. Now Jean-Claude Vrinat, its owner for 28 years, has opened an outpost that's just a little bit blasphemous. In stark contrast to Taillevent--with its swagged drapes, oil paintings in gilded frames and silver candelabras--L'Angle du Faubourg is spare: The stone floor is uncarpeted and the salmon-colored walls are covered only with rough swipes of plaster, as if they were ready for wallpaper. The waiters, it's true, present food with the precision of gendarmes, but they're young, friendly and groovy-looking. The menu--created by the impossibly boyish Stéphane Cosnier, a protégé of Taillevent's chef, Michel Del Burgo--is gently priced, simple to navigate (only six first courses and five entrées) and represents an easy mix of Mediterranean-inflected dishes: a cold "lasagna" of salmon tartare and tomato confit; braised veal accompanied by macaroni (yes, the Yankee Doodle variety) stuffed with artichoke puree. The standout dessert--Milk Shake aux Fruits de la Passion--hits the fashionable American note again. The fabulously chic woman behind me who threw back her head to get the last drops would have been an infidel at Taillevent, but at L'Angle du Faubourg she was a true believer (195 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré; 011-33-1-40-74-20-20).

--Pamela Kaufman

Published June 2001
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