When Mario Lohninger, the former chef of New York City's exquisite Danube restaurant, decided to move back to Europe, he didn't even consider goinghome to Salzburg—Frankfurt had offered Lohninger a chance to try something very different from the hushed, jewel-box restaurant where he made his name. His new place, Silk, is in the sprawling, futuristic $8 million complex called the CocoonClub, which DJ legend Sven Väth opened this summer in the industrial-chic neighborhood of Ostend. At Silk, Lohninger serves beautifully crafted modern Austrian dishes like corn ravioli with pumpkinseed oil and rack of lamb with sauerkraut risotto to diners reclining on white leather beds. He's also overseeing the menu at the more casual Micro, where people sit at tables and eat Lohninger's favorite dishes from around the world. Next door, Väth spins tech-house music for the kids on the vast dance floor. DETAILS (Carl-Benz-Str. 21; 011-49-69-900-200 or cocoonclub.net).

Published December 2004