To re-create the fête at home, contact Four Story Hill Farm for whole baby pigs and apple-fed pigs (570-224-4137); Perona Farms for their own cotechino, the traditional Italian sausage (800-750-6190 or www.peronafarms.com); Niman Ranch for chops, bacon, hog casing for making charcuterie, guanciale (jowl), lardo (fatback) and pig’s tails and pig’s feet (510-808-0340 or www.nimanranch.com); D’Artagnan for true French-style hams, sausages and pâtés (800-327-8246 or www.dartagnan.com).

Published April 2003