Randall Grahm, the trickster of the wine world, has reinvented himself yet again.
In 2006, Grahm's wineries (including his Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, California) sold more than 450,000 cases of wine. In 2010, he expects to produce fewer than 35,000. But that transformation is not the result of a tough economy; it was spurred, essentially, by a philosophical crisiswhich, as anyone who knows Grahm would attest, fits his personality exactly.
On top of that, Grahm has also decided to become a restaurateur. Last year, he opened the Cellar Door Café; at Bonny Doon's new tasting room in downtown Santa Cruz. There, chef Charlie Parker echoes the winery's focus on organic and biodynamic farming in a daily-changing menu of wine-friendly dishes.