GETTING THERE
Alitalia flies direct from Rome to Bari, Puglia's capital, and there are also trains. To explore the region you'll need a car.
HOTELS Il Frantoio An immaculate agriturismo near Ostuni with a working farm and an outstanding restaurant (doubles from $220; SS 16, km 874; 011-39-0831-33-02-76).
Masseria San Domenico A rustic-chic 50-room five-star retreat near Fasano, in Savelletri di Fasano, with a thalassotherapy spa (doubles from $330; 011-39-080-482-77-69).
Masseria Torre Coccaro A deluxe resort with 33 rooms in a 16th-century farmhouse, in Savelletri di Fasano (doubles from $270; Contrada Coccaro, 8; 011-39-080-482-93-10).
Patria Palace Hotel Lecce's grandest hotel, in a converted 17th-century palace (doubles from $240; Piazzetta Riccardi, 13; 800-325-3589).
RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, FOOD SHOPS Al Fornello da Ricci A farmhouse in Ceglie Messapica with a Michelin star and modernized Puglian classics (Contrada Monte Vicoli; 011-39-0831-37-71-04).
Alle Due Corti This small, neo-rustic restaurant in Lecce serves traditional regional specialties (Via Leonardo Prato, 42; 011-39-0832-24-22-23).
Caffè Alvino This classic Lecce café and bakery is a must for cream-filled pasticciotto pastries (Piazza San Oronzo, 30;011-39-0832-24-74-36).
Caffè Ronchi A century-old café in Altamura; try the walnut liqueur (Corso di Svevia, 73; no phone).
Forno a Legna Nunzio Ninivaggi For Altamura's gigantic bread baked in oak-fired ovens (Via Torino, 36; 011-39-080-311-58-52).
Osteria di Salvatore Cucco Great country cooking and cheeses, in Gravina in Puglia (Piazza Pellicciari, 4; 011-39-080-326-18-72).
Ristorante Bufi In Molfetta, a restaurant with refined Puglian cooking (Via Vittorio Emanuele, 15; 011-39-080-397-15-97).
Il Super Mago del Gelo Sublime gelato and granita in Polignano a Mare, south of Bari (Piazza Garibaldi, 22; 011-39-080-424-00-25).
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