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The simple dishes in this sophisticated French menu lend themselves surprisingly well to Champagne. The mild bitterness of the Radish Greens Soup brings out the fruit in a rich vintage bottling, such as the 1989 Veuve Clicquot Gold Label Brut, or a full-flavored nonvintage bottling, such as the Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut. Best of all, because truffles, sea bass, sautéed mushrooms and strawberries are all Champagne-friendly, it's possible to serve it all the way through the meal. But if you're looking for a little variety, switch to a rich white Meursault, such as the 1995 Louis Latour or the 1995 Louis Jadot Charmes, with the fish and mushrooms and serve a glass of an aromatic and sweet Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise--the 1994 Georges Duboeuf or the nonvintage Prosper Maufoux--with the dessert.
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