Da Guido (Piazza Umberto I 27, Costigliole d'Asti; phone/fax, 011-39-0141-966012). Don't be put off by the ugly entrance next to a bank. Da Guido produces some of Piedmont's most wonderful regional dishes. Head downstairs, where Lidia Alciati and her son Ugo prepare classics such as hand-pinched agnolotti, roast kid (capretto) and panna cotta. There's also a lengthy wine list.

La Contea (Piazza Cocito 8, Neive; 011-39-0173-67126; fax, 011-39-0173-67367). At La Contea, Claudia Verro directs the kitchen, her daughter Elisa makes the pastry when she's not studying, and her husband, Tonino, directs both the restaurant and the enoteca (wine bar). The wine list is loaded with fabulous bottles, and the enoteca carries quality regional products, such as cugnà (winter-fruit chutney), cheeses and salamis.

Il Cascinale Nuovo (Via Asti-Alba 15, Isola d'Asti; 011-39-0141-958166; fax, 011-39-0141-958828). Walter Ferretto and his mother, Silvana, combine tradition and innovation in the kitchen of Il Cascinale Nuovo. Brother Roberto handles the wine list and the seating at well-spaced, elegantly set tables in two dining rooms. Dishes include foie gras and veal tongue terrine, and cheese-stuffed winter squash.