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Paris Old-School and New Wine Bars

    By Jane Sigal

Old-School Wine Bars

Au Sauvignon
This tiny, glass-enclosed wine bar offers Domaine Mardon Quincy—a little-known Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley—and deliciously fatty pork-rillettes tartines (open-faced sandwiches).

Au Vin des Rues
This bastion of Lyonnais wines is a great place to start a Beaujolais Nouveau crawl on the third Thursday in November with a glass of the grapey new wine and ham-and-cornichon sandwiches.

La Cloche des Halles
As his father did, Franck Lesage slices his jambon à l’os (“ham on the bone”) and bottles his own Chiroubles, Mâcon and Chinon at this oasis of authenticity in the touristy Les Halles neighborhood.

Le Rubis
Steps from the fashion boutiques John Galliano and Colette in the first arrondissement, owner Albert Prat serves Beaujolais, Loire Valley and Côtes-du-Rhône wines along with a hot daily special, like petit salé aux lentilles (cured pork braised with green lentils).

Pioneering Wine Bars

Le Garde Robe
The wine picks at this scruffy little shop near the Louvre include bottles from Languedoc’s superb Domaine de la Grange des Pères winery to go with sardines, andouille sausage and rustic pork terrine.

Le Verre Volé
At this minuscule shop, Cyril Bordarier stocks biodynamic selections from vignerons like Marcel Deiss. Charcuterie from Paris’s famed Joël Meurdesoif and other simple dishes pair beautifully with the wines.

Les Papilles
Veteran Taillevent pastry chef Bertrand Bluy oversees the creative ingredient-driven cooking and also sells natural wines at this market-restaurant located near the Luxembourg Gardens.

L’estaminet d’Arômes & Cépages
Sunday lunch is the best time for the stewed lamb, a glass of natural wine and a seat at the communal table at this spot in Paris’s oldest covered market.


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© Lisa Linder

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