Co-owner Mike Etzel makes extraordinarily full-bodied and intense Pinot Noirs that still manage to be graceful and nuanced. The Beaux Frères Vineyard bottling is the wine everyone wants (though it’s pricey by Oregon standards—about $80).
Véronique Drouhin was the first winemaker here, and these wines, elegant and feminine, reflect her touch. The 2004 Laurène bottling is particularly polished, and the regular Willamette Valley bottling ($45) is a good deal.
Some of the wines are too oaky for my taste, but Tony Rynders has a true feel for the grape, and his 2002 Grace Vineyard Pinot is simply gorgeous. The 2005 ($125) is also excellent—so much so that I can only imagine how good the 2006 will be.