A selection of the world's best: Pleasantly bitter oil from California's McEvoy Ranch ($24 for 375 ml; 707-769-4122). Unusually rounded Tenuta del Numerouno from Tuscany ($20 for 500 ml; 212-974-8101). Andalusia's typically grassy Almazara Luis Herrera ($15 for 500 ml; 206-297-6713). Deliciously herbal Provençal Castelas ($35 for 750 ml; 707-963-8293). Sicily's fruity Olio Verde ($27 for 500 ml; 510-652-0462). Catalonia's lush Dauro de l'Empordà ($25 for 500 ml; 206-297-6713).
World Of Oil
The best-known high-quality, estate-bottled extra-virgin olive oils are from Tuscany and Umbria, but excellent oils from elsewhere in Italy and around the globe are increasingly visible in American stores, often at better prices.
ITALY Puglia (the heel of Italy's boot) produces more than half of the country's olive oil, much of it first-rate. Sicilian and Calabrian oils are round and fruity; central Italian oils are spicier.