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Wines One virtue of Thomas Keller's seasonally fresh menu is that red and white wines work equally well with it, so choose whichever you prefer. For a white that's made practically a stone's throw from the French Laundry, Keller's restaurant in Yountville, California, seek out the creamy 2004 Bell Wine Cellars Chardonnay; another possibility, also made in Yountville—albeit with grapes from Carneros—is the racy 2004 Domaine Chandon Chardonnay. If reds are your favorites, the 2003 Ancien Napa Valley Pinot Noir, full of spicy blackberry fruit, pairs quite nicely with Keller's smoky grilled chicken, as does the 2004 Clos du Val Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir, with its gloss of smoky oak. For dessert, Muscat has a gentle delicacy and flavors that suggest honeyed apricots and nectarines; it's the perfect accompaniment to Keller's luscious peaches. And the 2004 St. Supéry Moscato has enough acidity to stand up to the richness of the mint syrup that the peaches are served in and the Petit Suisse that accompanies them.

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