Butcher shops have dwindled to endangered-species status, but a new generation of store owners is bringing them back—with a passionate commitment to locally raised meat, lesser-known cuts and chef-inspired recipes.

Fleisher’s Josh Applestone is an unlikely butcher: He was a vegan for 17 years. His wife, Jessica, only ate meat from pastured animals, preferably from local farms. Now the duo have two shops, and 100 percent of their meat comes from within 20 miles. Because the meat is so flavorful, it needs little embellishment: A roast beef gets a simple but punchy horseradish crust. Josh is now a full-on carnivore—bacon is what first got him. Jessica says, “We even sell T-shirts that say Bacon—The Gateway Meat.”

Plus:

Amazing Pork Dishes

6 Unusual Cuts of Meat

A Carnivore’s Cookout

Maverick Butchers:

• Maverick Butchers: Avedano’s in San Francisco
• Maverick Butchers: Fleisher’s in Kingston & Rhinebeck, NY
• Maverick Butchers: Belmont Butchery in Richmond, VA
• Unfamiliar Meat Cuts: A Guide to Butcher Favorites

Published November 2008