Maverick Butchers: Fleisher’s in Kingston & Rhinebeck, NY

Butcher shops have dwindled to endangered-species status, but a new generation of store owners is bringing them back—with a passionate commitment to locally raised meat, lesser-known cuts and chef-inspired recipes.

Juniper-Brined Double-Cut Pork Chops

Horseradish-Crusted Roast Beef

Fleisher’s Josh Applestone is an unlikely butcher: He was a vegan for 17 years. His wife, Jessica, only ate meat from pastured animals, preferably from local farms. Now the duo have two shops, and 100 percent of their meat comes from within 20 miles. Because the meat is so flavorful, it needs little embellishment: A roast beef gets a simple but punchy horseradish crust. Josh is now a full-on carnivore—bacon is what first got him. Jessica says, “We even sell T-shirts that say Bacon—The Gateway Meat.”