When F&W asked star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten to do a column on steak, I was surprised that he suggested beef tenderloin. I have it on good authority that his favorite steak is a porterhouse, grilled simply with salt and pepper, but the three recipes he gave me used a veritable spice rack of ingredients, from hot powdered mustard to floral kaffir lime leaves. So why the tenderloin, and why did it need so many embellishments?
Vongerichten grabbed my notepad and drew me a porterhouse, making a T for the bone that runs through the cut. “You see, the porterhouse has a lot of bone,” he said, lovingly running the pen over the T again and again.
“Yes, I see,” I said hesitantly, not seeing his point at all.