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Restaurant Çiya
Musa Dagdeviren's trio of restaurants, renowned for the variety of Anatolian dishes served (Gunuslibahce Sok. No. 43-44, Caferaga Mah., Kadikoy; 90-216-418-5115).

Imroz
A tiny taverna that serves terrific meze (Nevizade Sok. No. 24, Balikpazari, Beyoglu; 90-212-249-9073).

Kandilli Balikçisi
The freshest fish in town is at this restaurant on the banks of the Bosporus Strait (Iskele Cad. No. 17, Üsküdar; 90-216-332-3241).

Mutfak Dili
Run by an Armenian couple; the wife, who's the chef, makes the very best olive oil-braised dishes. Weekdays only, lunch only (Tersane Cad., Ziyali Sok No. 10, Karakoy; 90-212-254-1154).
—Ayfer T. Ünsal

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