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Three of my favorite Marco de Grazia selections.

1996 Il Palazzino Grosso Sanese ($30). A suave Sangiovese from an outstanding Chianti Classico producer--an insider's wine year after year. The 1996, now on the shelves, is pretty terrific, but the 1997, due out soon, is from a stunning vintage, and it may just be the best this estate has ever produced. Its darkly nuanced tones capture the essence of Sangiovese's black cherries.

1996 Paolo Scavino Barolo Caro Bric ($80). The first vintage of a new super-blend from Barolo producer Scavino. Beautifully understated and elegant, with a finish that goes on and on.

1998 Gini Soave Classico La Frosca ($15). Gini's crisp, minerally Soave Classico, the cru La Frosca, has layers of flavor that are as delicate as watercolor washes.

--S.I.Virbila