Two summer classics make a nontraditional but inspired pairing: a succulent Maine lobster roll and a vibrant French rosé.

Perfect Wine Match

During the summer, dry rosé is a traditional favorite, and it's easy to understand why. Served chilled, it's as refreshing as a white wine, yet it has the fruit and substance of a light red, making it a versatile partner for food—like this Maine lobster roll. My top pick comes from the Tavel region of the Rhône Valley, home to France's most famous and substantial rosés. The 2002 Château d'Aqueria ($15) is a fragrant, intense wine made from a blend of several grapes, including Grenache. It has enough fruit to match the sweetness of the lobster and sufficient acidity to cut through the butter and mayonnaise. Even more powerful is the 2002 Iron Horse T Bar T Rosato di Sangiovese ($15) from Sonoma, a deep-colored rosé with wonderful floral and cherry aromas. It's a big (14.2-percent alcohol) but very well-balanced wine.

—Richard Nalley

Published August 2003