Learning to Love Austrian Food
Arnold Schwarzenegger credits his strength to pumpkin seed oil," says Austrian-born, New Yorkbased chef Eduard Frauneder (left). "In Austria, you can buy it at the petrol station." In the US, the dark, nutty oil certainly isn't sold at Shell or Exxon, or even most supermarkets. Yet a handful of new restaurants are working to get Americans excited about Austrian cuisine. In Manhattan, Frauneder and Wolfgang Ban own the elegant Seäsonal, which has earned a Michelin star, and they recently launched a second restaurant, Edi & the Wolf, a casual wine bar that highlights obscure central European grapes like Neuburger and Blaufränkisch in a rustic-chic room filled with reclaimed wood sourced from a barn.
Austrian Food: U.S. Spots
Seäsonal and Edi & the Wolf, New York City
Seäsonal is Eduard Frauneder and Wolfgang Ban's Michelin-starred place; Edi & The Wolf is their new wine bar.
Café Kristall, New York City
Kurt Gutenbrunner serves Viennese dishes at his new venture, a sleek café in a Swarovski boutique.
Grüner; Portland, OR
Chef Christopher Israel makes Alps-inspired food (buckwheat spaetzle with rabbit, liverwurst canapés) using top local ingredients in a cool, minimalist space. grunerpdx.com.
Grünauer; Kansas City, MO
This Midwestern spot from a Vienna restaurant family updates Austrian classics, such as the pot roastlike tafelspitz.grunauerkc.com.
Leopold's, San Francisco
A beer hall that draws from the owners' Austrian-Italian heritage. Look for schnitzel, strudel and pappardelle.
A new wave of Austrian designers are carrying on the tradition of predecessors like Josef Hoffmann and the Wiener Werkstätte.
The 19th-century Viennese glassmaking company Lobmeyr hired design group Polka to update a traditional beer glass. $137; kneenandco.com.
A stemlike handle is the visual hallmark of the new "Alice" tea collection by Viennese porcelain design company Feinedinge ("fine things"). $200; feinedinge.at.
Centuries-old Austrian company Riess and buzzy Vienna designers Dottings collaborated on enamel cookware in an array of colors. virages.fr.
Witty Alpine references mark this porcelain antler plate by Mano Design. $75; florisity.com.
Austrian Grape Guide
Everyone knows Riesling, but what about Rotgipfler? Here, some overlooked Austrian varietals.
The light- to medium-bodied reds can have floral notes and a Pinot Noir like silkiness. Producer to try: Moric.
Loved by sommeliers, these whites are prized for their great minerality and snappy flavors. Producer to try: Weingut Brüdelmayer.
These whites have zingy acidity but honeyed depth of flavor. Producer to try: Weingut Tinhof.
From the warm Thermenregion, these whites are rich, juicy and spicy. Producer to try: Weingut Stadlmann.
Related to Pinot Noir, this grape can produce deeply fruity or restrained reds. Producer to try: Rosi Schuster.