A.O.C.
THE CHEF Suzanne Goin, co-owner of Lucques. THE FOOD Tapas-style portions designed to be shared ($7 and up), a huge selection of charcuterie and a cheese bar serving 16 artisanal choices. The 12-page wine list includes 50 by the glass. THE ATMOSPHERE Casual yet refined, with seating around the cheese bar (the choicest spot) and a patio reserved for walk-ins (8022 W. Third St., West Hollywood; 323-653-6359).
Ballona Fish Market
THE CHEF Hans Röckenwagner, owner of Röckenwagner. THE FOOD New England-style seafood with all entrées priced less than $20, including wild striped bass with Peruvian blue potatoes and peas; steamed black cod with lentils and Swiss chard; and crab cakes with lemongrass mayo and pickled melon balls. There's delicious fried chicken, too. THE ATMOSPHERE If you squint, you might think you were in a Cape Cod village. The chef himself constructed the faux facades, which create distinct dining areas within the room. Popular with yacht dwellers and trendy marina folk (13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey; 310-822-8979).
Cora's Coffee Shoppe
THE CHEF Bruce Marder, owner of Capo and former owner of Rebecca's. THE FOOD Omelets, pancakes and frittatas served all day, plus Italian comfort food like slow-braised short ribs and polentawith prices maxing out at $14. THE ATMOSPHERE A camera-ready greasy spoon with only a few counter stools. A tented patio has enough room for surfboards, a feature that comes in handy, since the beach is just a block away from the restaurant (1802 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; 310-451-9562).
Father's Office
THE CHEF Sang Yoon, formerly of Michael's. THE FOOD Mediterranean-inspired tapas, such as spicy lamb lollipops with grilled radicchio ($15) and arguably the best burger in town ($10). THE ATMOSPHERE The narrow room has a few bistro tables in the front and an old-fashioned bar in the back. There's no table service, so order at the bar, then find a seat if you can (1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 310-393-2337).
Vert
THE CHEFS Wolfgang Puck, mastermind of the Spago empire, and Lee Hefter, of Spago in Beverly Hills. THE FOOD First-rate French and Italian standards such as mussels with frites, croque monsieur, pizza margherita and a pan-roasted pork chop with mustard cream and Alsatian cabbage, from $16. Regulars order the rigatoni with meatballs and spaghetti bolognese even when they're not on the menu. THE ATMOSPHERE White-tablecloth dining without the buttoned-up attitude (6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; 323-491-1300).
Zeke's Smokehouse
THE CHEFS Leonard Schwartz and Michael Rosen, formerly of Maple Drive and Reign, respectively. THE FOOD Texas-style brisket and beef ribs, Kansas Citystyle spare ribs, Memphis-style baby back ribs and fried chicken littles with potato salad and harissa dipping sauce. Entrées range from $7 to $20. THE ATMOSPHERE The modern design (aluminum chairs, bleached wood) makes it clear this isn't a typical barbecue joint. Popular with families, and teenagers spending their allowances (2209 Honolulu Ave., Montrose; 818-957-7045).



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