As far as Jacques Pépin is concerned, no electric device does certain jobs as well as a hand-cranked food mill.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Choose a funnel-shaped model—either stainless steel or plastic—with a sturdy handle, two or three interchangeable metal disks and small legs that secure the mill to bowls.

HOW IT WORKS Add the ingredients, then turn the crank to rotate the curved blade over the disk, pressing the food through; turn the crank backward to scrape up and redistribute the ingredients.

SUGGESTED USES Attach the finer disk for silky sauces, purees and baby food; the coarser one for applesauce, soups, guacamole and mashed potatoes.