Jacques' Low-Tech Love | Ode to a Food Mill

Ignoring high-tech gadgets, a chef lauds the old-fashioned food mill and uses it to make a rustic tomato sauce and creamy onion flans.

Today I use a lot of equipment that wasn't available when I was an apprentice. And I wouldn't want to go back to cooking without a rubber spatula, plastic wrap or nonstick pans. Still, one of my favorite tools is an old-fashioned gadget: the food mill. When I make a tomato sauce by cooking and pureeing chunks of unpeeled tomatoes with unpeeled garlic cloves and sprigs of thyme and oregano, my implement of choice is a food mill fitted with the coarse disk; the rustic texture it provides cannot be matched. Likewise, when I make creamy onion flans, I rely on a food mill fitted with the fine disk; onions that have been cooked very gently until sweet and tender become a silky puree that will flavor the custard.

Whether you choose a stainless steel or plastic mill—both are good—select one with sloping, rather than straight, sides and interchangeable disks. My favorite model is the inexpensive Moulinex.

The Dish
Receive delicious recipes and smart wine advice 4x per week in this e-newsletter.
The Wine List Weekly pairing plus best bottles to buy.
F&W Daily One sensational dish served fresh every day.

Sponsored Stories

powered by ZergNet