2006 Kris Pinot Grigio ($13) A perennial value, this light, peachy Pinot Grigio comes from well-known Alto Adige winemaker Franz Haas; stainless steel fermentation and aging keep its flavors bright and focused.

2005 Marcarini Dolcetto d’ Alba Fontanazza ($17) Marcarini straddles the traditionalist-modernist divide in Piedmont, producing elegant, surprisingly approachable wines that avoid the easy appeal of new oak. This light red, with its scent of violets and gentle spiciness, is entirely characteristic.

2003 Colognole Chianti Rufina ($14) As classic a Chianti as one could ask for (though not from Chianti Classico, but Chianti Rufina—both are subregions in the Chianti zone), this cherry-inflected red has an earthy aroma with a faint pine note.

2006 Mirabile Insolia ($16) Insolia, a native Sicilian white grape variety, is known for its perfumey, herbal scent. Mirabile’s bottling is no exception; the oddly appealing aroma recalls ripe mango and pineapple along with fresh oregano.

2006 Planeta La Segreta Rosso ($16) A blend of Nero d’ Avola with Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, this unoaked red from a Sicilian winery run by three cousins is abundantly fruity, with flavors suggesting blackberries and mulberries.