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IN THE CENTRAL PLAIN:
AL FORNELLO-DA RICCI (Contrada Montevicoli, Ceglie Messapico; 831-377-104. Entrées $12 to $16.) One of Italy's great restaurants. Dora Ricci is the chef, her husband, Angelo, a fine guide to local wines.
IL POETA CONTADINO (21 Via Indipendenza, outside the walls of Alberobello; 80-721-917. Entrées $16 to $20.) Leonardo Marco runs the dining room; his wife, Carol, the kitchen. She's a Canadian who has mastered Pugliese traditions.
TRATTORIA CENTRO STORICO (6 Via Eroi di Dogali, Locorotondo; 80-931-5473. Entrées $8.) A little place with a wonderful kitchen--just the kind of spot I'm always hoping to discover.
TRATTORIA SANTUDD (176 Via S. Marco, just outside Locorotondo; 80-723-110. Entrées $8.) Great pizza from a wood-fired oven.
NEAR BARI, ON THE ADRIATIC:
RISTORANTE NICCOLO VAN WESTERHOUT (3-5 Via de Amicis, Mola di Bari; 80-474-6989. Entrées priced according to the market.) Wonderful Barese seafood.
IN LECCE, IN THE SOUTH:
TRATTORIA CASARECCIA (19 Via C. Costadura; 832-245-178. Entrées $12.) The name means home cooking, and Concetta Cantoro runs the kitchen of this tiny, popular restaurant as if it were her own at home; her husband, Marcello, is the affable host. Reservations essential.
IN TARANTO, ON THE IONIAN SEA:
RISTORANTE GAMBRINUS (24 Via Cariati; 99-471-6552. Entrées $6.) Aldo Missiani's delightful hole-in-the-wall opposite the docks.
To call from the U.S, first dial 011-39.
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