Don't come to Trinidad for deluxe accommodations and sybaritic beach resorts, although there are some fine beaches, especially Maracas, Las Cuevas and Tyrico bays in the north, and Manzanilla and Mayaro bays on the east coast. What is spectacular on Trinidad is the food, including that of Ismail Merchant's favorite restaurant, Tamnak Thai (13 Queen's Park Savannah East, Port of Spain; 868-625-0647), and the ecotourism. Don't miss, for example, the boat tours of Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary to see thousands of scarlet ibis roosting at dusk (868-645-1305). The Asa Wright Nature Centre & Lodge (Blanchisseuse Road, Arima Valley; 800-426-7781) is the best place to stay in the rain-forest region, with 24 comfortable, rustic rooms among trees populated with hummingbirds and tufted coquettes. Pax Guest House (Tunapuna; 868-662-4084), on the landscaped grounds of a Benedictine monastery, is another rural option. CrewsInn Hotel (Point Gourde; 868-634-4384) on the northwest coast is the newest hotel on the island; the full-service marina is the main draw here. Trinidad's most deluxe hotel remains the Hilton (Port of Spain; 868-624-3111), which is anodyne but does come with all the usual modern conveniences. American Airlines flies direct to Trinidad from Miami; BWIA West Indies Airways flies direct from Miami, Washington, D.C., and New York City.

Kate Sekules