Bruno Giacosa This arch-Traditionalist makes Barbarescos that are every bit as great as his Barolos. And though my bottle of the legendary 1990 Falletto bottling fell a bit short of greatness, the legacy of this estate is undeniable, and the (red label) wines are coveted by every serious Barolo collector I know. Look for the 2001 Falletto (about $150) for long-term aging.
Domenico Clerico A leading Barolo Modernist, Clerico produces some of the most notable single-vineyard wines, especially his Ciabot Mentin Ginestra. The 2001 ($85) is a beautifully balanced example.
Giacomo Borgogno This well-established Traditionalist has been around for nearly 200 years, but its wines are excellent values: The 1996 Riserva ($60), a restrained, structured Barolo, is a particularly good buy.
Luciano Sandrone The most acclaimed of all the Modernist producers, Sandrone makes two Barolos, but his wildly intense, superconcentrated Cannubi Boschis bottling is the apogee of the Modernist style. It’s also quite expensive; the 1989 costs about $450—if you can find it.
Paolo Scavino The Bric dël Fiasc single-vineyard bottling from Modernist Scavino is a remarkably consistent and sought-after wine, year after year: elegant but extremely full-bodied and dense, requiring years, if not decades, of aging. The 2001 vintage ($130) is one to buy—and hold on to for at least another 10 years.
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