What's your favorite new ingredient?
Whatever's in season. Some of my favorite things are heirloom tomatoes, morels, fava beans and white asparagus.
What's the most versatile spice?
Pepper and also coriander seed. You can get French coriander seed with orangy flavor or the Indian coriander seed with lemony flavor.
What's the most underused spice?
Salt. I've been saying it for 15 years. Any kind from fleur de sel to Japanese sea salt to sel gris. You don't have to use a lot of salt if you season with the right kind. The most misconceived ingredient is salt. People always think you have to use salt at the end, but if you cook with salt it seasons as it cooks. Cayenne and curry are also really underused. Joël Robuchon does so much with curry at the end of his dishes. And piment d'Espelette pepper, which has a little more depth than cayenne. It's still spicy but without as much heat.