Mario Batali's menu delivers lots of gutsy, rustic Italian flavors--and that's exactly the flavor profile to look for in a wine match. All you need to set off the tangy tastes of the beet crostini and the grilled endives is a simple tart Italian white. Think Pinot Grigio, such as the 1996 Lungarotti or the 1996 Zemmer. After that, you can pair a full-flavored Italian red with the spicy ziti, the meaty mixed grill and the goat cheese. Consider one of the fine bottlings from southern Italy, such as the 1994 Regaleali Rosso del Conte or the 1995 Corvo Rosso.