Hotel El Convento Overlooking the bay in the middle of Old San Juan, 58-room Hotel El Convento is a colonial beauty. Bedrooms have marble chessboard or terra-cotta tile floors and wooden shutters. The hotel started life in 1651 as a convent, then did less salubrious stints as dance hall, flophouse and garage (100 Cristo St.; 800-468-2779; doubles $150 to $1,200; www.elconvento.com).

The Gallery Inn New York-born watercolor artist Jan D'Esopo displays her work throughout this eighteenth-century Spanish colonial house in Old San Juan. The 22 adorable, air-conditioned guest rooms, most opening onto gardens and patios or with private terraces, are adorned with trompe l'oeil murals and antique furniture (Calle Norzagaray 204—206; 787-722-1808; doubles $145 to $350; www.thegalleryinn.com).

Aguaviva A happening year-old restaurant in Old San Juan serving Nuevo Latino seafood dishes such as mussel seviche (364 Calle Fortaleza; 787-722-0665).

Las Vegas At his restaurant in the El Yunque rain forest, chef Alfredo Ayala treats Puerto Rican ingredients with respect and imagination. The grilled-dorade skewers are a standout (Road 191, Km 1.3, Rio Grande; 787-887-2526).