How To Make Ice Cream Like an Artisan
Jeni Britton creates some of the best ice creams, sorbets and frozen yogurts in America at her three Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams shops in Columbus, Ohio. The 34-year-old artisan is an ingredient obsessive, buying cream from local farmers who gently pasteurize to her specifications. She has also worked with dairy professors at Ohio State University to deepen her understanding of ice cream making. The result: incredibly smooth ice creams in distinctive seasonal flavors like strawberry–rose petal.
When Britton adapted her basic ice cream recipe for the home cook, she tested 75 versions to find the perfect one. Unlike many recipes, Britton’s doesn’t call for egg yolks as a thickener because she finds the egg flavor distracting: “I love the taste of cream so much that I hate to cover it up with anything.” Instead, Britton boils the cream and milk to evaporate some of the water, then mixes in a little cornstarch. As for frozen yogurt, she adds a touch of gelatin to create an appealing whipped texture. The secret to her sorbets is using local produce at its peak. “Above all, sorbet should taste and feel almost like eating fresh fruit,” she says.