Yodels (a.k.a. Ho Hos) made a regular appearance in Sue McCown's lunchbox when she was a kid. She still delights in them, and they've inspired one of the many whimsical desserts she's created as pastry chef at Earth & Ocean in Seattle. First she spreads thin sheets of spongy chocolate cake with slightly tangy, sour cream-spiked caramel whipped cream; then she rolls the cake up, slices it and coats the pieces in melted semisweet chocolate.

Earth & Ocean, 1112 Fourth Ave., Seattle; 206-264-6060.

Published April 2005