There's plenty to do in Oxford after you've eaten at City Grocery (601-232-8080). The town is considered the capital of southern literature, and no visit is complete without a stop at Square Books (601-236-2262), where you can browse through the formidable collection or sip a cappuccino on a balcony overlooking the historic town square. The former home of William Faulkner, Rowan Oak (601-234-3284), is another literary must-see; so is the Seymour Lawrence Room (601-232-7408) on the lush University of Mississippi campus, which holds the manuscripts and ephemera of a veritable who's who of contemporary writing. The Barksdale-Isom House (601-236-5600) is an antebellum mansion that was recently converted into a bed-and-breakfast; chef Nancy Nations's ham-and-scallion cheese grits alone are worth the stay. For down-home food, try the turnip greens and black-eyed peas at Ajax Diner (601-232-8880), where the counter is crafted out of antique Mississippi license plates.
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