1999 Rosé ($10). Dry, fairly light-bodied but crisp and vibrant.

1997 Chardonnay ($13). A moderately lean, racy style of Chardonnay.

1997 Reserve Chardonnay ($18). Bold and buttery with a fair amount of French oak and pounds of rich, ripe fruit. Definitely bodacious, but not excessive.

1997 Estate Selection Merlot ($30). The undisputed star. Superripe and polished with swaggering amounts of Sonoma-style black-cherry fruit.

1996 Sparkling Wine ($29). A yeasty Champagne-method sparkler that's electrically lively with confident (and palate-cleansing) acidity.