2007 Selbach Riesling Kabinett ($18)
Selbach’s crisp “Fish Label” Riesling Kabinett is particularly good in the impressive 2007 Mosel vintage, which was marked by a long, cool summer and fine autumn weather.
2007 Weingut St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett ($19)
Named for the patron saint of wine producers, St. Urban of Langres, this long-established estate produces a wide range of good wines from a number of vineyards in the Mosel region. Among them is this floral white with its flavors of lime zest and green apples.
2007 Dr. Loosen Dr. L Riesling ($10)
This peachy, appealingly direct white comes from one of the most well-known Mosel producers, Dr. Loosen (LOH-zen), currently run by the erudite, always engaging Ernst Loosen.
2006 Graff Riesling Kabinett ($11)
The year 2006 may have been a difficult one in Germany, but close attention during harvest at Graff helped produce this dense, stony white, its fruit flavors delicious and lasting.
2007 S.A. Prüm Essence Riesling ($12)
An example of the affordable Rieslings with nontraditional names that many German producers now make, this lively, peach-scented Riesling comes from a family that has cultivated grapevines on the banks of the Mosel River for more than 200 years.
2007 Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Estate Riesling ($16)
This Mosel estate was founded in the 1800s and has been known ever since for producing impeccably balanced Rieslings. Among them is this zingy, halbtrocken (medium-dry) estate bottling, full of peppery spice notes and pear fruit.
2007 Schloss Lieser Estate Riesling ($17)
The well-known Schloss Lieser estate has seen a big upswing in the quality of its wines since Thomas Haag (whose family owns the famous Fritz Haag estate) purchased it in 1997, as shown by wines like this graceful, lime-zesty white.
2006 Schmitges Grauschiefer Trocken Riesling ($18)
The grapes for this trocken (dry) Riesling are grown on steep hillsides above the Mosel River, on the region’s characteristic slate-filled soils (generally thought to be responsible for Mosel Rieslings’ stony character). Like the landscape, this wine is appealingly austere, with citrus and nectarine notes.
2007 von Hövel Balduin von Hövel Estate Riesling ($19)
The cool Saar weather and the expertise of Eberhard von Kunow—whose family acquired this estate from Napoleon in 1803—produced a substantial, apple-driven white that has an almost waxy texture in the superb 2007 vintage.
2007 C. von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Riesling QbA ($20)
A pretty floral scent leads into a stony, elegantly poised Riesling. It’s among the most affordable bottlings from von Schubert’s renowned Maximin Grünhaus estate, which has records of vines being planted as far back as the first century AD.