Mexico City
Restaurants
Biko
Biko translates to "union of two" in Basque. That's what co-chefs Bruno Oteiza
and Mikel Alonso, disciples of avant-garde Spanish chef Juan Mari Arzak, aim to do with their
Basque-focused menu, divided into sections named "traditional" and
"evolution." Prices are highbefitting the restaurant's location in an
expensive shopping districtbut the dining room has a relaxed atmosphere.
We loved: Raw salmon with "smoke paper" (made from potato flour) and red and black
caviar.
Bistro Arlequin
The city's expat French and Brit crowd come to this eight-table spot for great,
unpretentious French bistro cooking at low prices.
We loved: Lamb casserole and steak frites.
El Cardenal
This local hangout near Zocalo and the Bellas Artes Theatre draws Mexico City's
politicians, actors and intellectuals with its old-school provincial Mexican menu and seasonally
changing dishes. The scene is particularly buzzing at breakfast, where the offerings include fig
and coconut pastries and hot chocolate poured from jugs.
We loved: Tacos stuffed with mincemeat and potato and steamed in a banana leaf.
Contramar
This is a longtime lunchtime favorite among the artsy Condesa and Roma crowd. The menu by chef
Andrés Barragán adds subtle but smart twists to Mexican seafood dishesfor
instance, snapper is served with a red salsa on one side and a green one on the other.
We loved: Raw tuna tostadas with chipotle mayonnaise.
Les Moustaches
The traditional French dishes served at this stately split-level dining room include a mussel
soup and a pistachio soufflé.
We loved: Oysters Rockefeller; Grand Marnier soufflé.
MP Café Bistro
This elegant restaurant in the trendy Polanco neighborhood features chef Mónica
Patiño's small platesa blend of Asian fusion and Mexican influenceprepared
with organic ingredients.
We loved: Corn chowder with curry; duck tacos.
Pujol by Enrique Olvera
Locals pack into this 15-table restaurant for chef Enrique Olvera's complete reworking of
the Mexican repertoire. Among his playful takes on traditional ingredients and textures: squash
blossom "cappuccino" with coconut-milk foam and a deconstructed quesadilla.
We loved: Three-grain esquite, a
street-food-inspired dish with purple, pozolero and summer corn, served with clarified epazote
broth.
Tezka
Renowned Basque chef Juan Mari Arzak may no longer be involved in Tezka, but Pedro Martin is
preparing his own terrific, Basque-inspired cuisine here. Unfortunately, the bland dining room
could use a makeover.
We loved: Suckling lamb with a confit of potato, avocado and raspberry sauce.






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