If you're a grappa groupie, here are restaurants in four cities that will satisfy your craving. In New York City, San Domenico has a monster selection of more than 70 grappas and even features such dishes as ostrich with pear-grappa sauce (240 Central Park S.; 212-265-5959). In Boston, Bricco offers 11 fruit-infused grappas and a grappa martini (241 Hanover St.; 617-248-6800). To celebrate the millennium, Valentino in Santa Monica will pour a rare $8,000 10-liter bottle of grappa di Picolit (3115 Pico Blvd.; 310-829-4313). In San Francisco, Spendido's amazing selection of 120 grappas includes ones from 10 California producers (4 Embarcadero Center; 415-986-3222). --Jessie Carry