Gastronaut Files: Matzo Recipe
"The matzo that comes in a box may be kosher, but it's not biblical," says Marcy Goldman, author of the forthcoming cookbook The Baker's Four Seasons. She's talking about the supermarket matzo that is commonly eaten during Passover: perfectly square flatbreads made with just white flour and water. Goldman bakes her own matzo using spelt, oat and whole wheat flours, ingredients that have origins as ancient as Passover itself. According to Goldman, this rustic, unrefined matzo recipe "tethers you to history, whether you're Jewish or not." The flatbreads are excellent on their own or topped with Goldman's pungent horseradish relish, inspired by the maror (bitter herb) that is an important symbol on the Passover table. She grates her horseradish in a food processor and sweetens it with apples and cranberries; the result is a sweet-and-sour condiment that, while not as traditional, is simple and delicious. Note: Homemade matzo is not kosher for Passover, so observant Jews may want to save the recipe to bake at other times of the year.