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madeiras i'm mad for

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The first three Madeiras are sold nationally; the two vintage wines are available from The Rare Wine Co. (800-999-4342).

5-year-old Blandy's Verdelho Medium Dry ($21). My favorite five-year-old. The color of iced tea, with the crisp smell and taste of the first fall apple.

10-year-old Blandy's Rich Malmsey ($36). A killer for a relatively low price. Chocolate and citrus flavors in a tug-of-war. I wanted both sides to win.

10-year-old Leacock's Medium Rich Bual ($35). The taste is similar to toasted almonds, down to the slight bitterness.

1910 Barbeito Sercial ($125). Refined and aristocratic, with flavors of raisins and citrus peel that lingered so long I wondered whether I should cancel my evening plans.

1827 Quinta do Serrado Bual ($325). Drinking this was an oh-now-I-get-it experience. The perfume is almost exactly like butterscotch. A perfect marriage of sweet and subtle.