Each of the vintners at Pierre and Frédérick Hermé's dinner was asked to bring one of his wines to accompany a particular dish. Since their wines are pure and very concentrated, they made superb partners for the Hermés' deeply flavored food.

To pair with buttery kugelhopf: Sélosse's 1989 Cuvée Tradition Champagne. Rich, nutty and elegant; 100percent barrel fermented. "You really taste the wine behind the bubbles," Pierre commented.

To pair with velvety Parmesan soup: Thévenet's 1995 Domaine de la Bon Gran Cuvée Levrouté Mâcon-Clessé. A super-concentrated, creamy Chardonnay from southern Burgundy made from overripe grapes, some of which had been attacked by the noble rot that gives Sauternes its honeyed lusciousness.

To pair with Moroccan-spiced turbot: Dagueneau's 1996 Cuvée Silex Pouilly-Fumé. Great acid balance and vibrant aroma. Crisp, deep, razor-sharp Sauvignon Blanc from the eastern Loire.

To pair with ultra-classic Coq au Vin: Jayer-Gilles's 1985 Echézeaux. A red Burgundy. Truly spicy yet smooth and sensual.

To pair with lemony cream and fruit: Foucault's 1995 Clos Rougéard Coteaux de Saumur Vendanges Tardives. Sumptuous honey and currant flavors. A lush Chenin Blanc from the central Loire.

To pair with cinnamon-chocolate cake: Gentile's 1996 Cap Corse Muscat. Syrupy sweet wine with scents of peach and apricots from Corsica. --J.F.