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Francophilia: Then & Now

A 30-second guide to 30 years in food history: Michelin-starred French restaurants then and now.

Michelin-starred restaurants you would have gone to in the’80s


Michelin-starred restaurants you need to book a table at now

Michel Bras; Laguiole

An early locavore, Bras was known for gathering and cooking with wild herbs and greens.


Michel Bras; Laguiole

Bras’s sunny, salubrious (mostly), ultra-regional and refined food still inspires the world’s best chefs.

Michel Guérard; Eugénie-les-Bains

A pioneer in spa cuisine, Guérard was one of the first starred chefs to have a book translated into English.


Les Maisons de Bricourt; Cancale

Chef Olivier Roellinger is known for his ethereal—and often startling—maritime menus.

Paul Bocuse; Collonges-au- Mont-d’Or

The original celebrity chef, Bocuse made Lyon and truffle soup famous.


Maison Pic; Valence

Anne-Sophie Pic, the first Frenchwoman in over 50 years to earn three stars, is a fish genius.

Alain Chapel; Mionnay

Chapel brilliantly updated French classics at his restaurant outside Lyon before his death in 1990.


Pierre Gagnaire; Paris

Iconoclast Gagnaire specializes in daring meals that can last as long as five hours.


Published September 2008


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