Francophilia: Then & Now

Michelin-starred restaurants you would have gone to in the’80s

Michelin-starred restaurants you need to book a table at now

Michel Bras; Laguiole

An early locavore, Bras was known for gathering and cooking with wild herbs and greens.

Michel Bras; Laguiole

Bras’s sunny, salubrious (mostly), ultra-regional and refined food still inspires the world’s best chefs.

Michel Guérard; Eugénie-les-Bains

A pioneer in spa cuisine, Guérard was one of the first starred chefs to have a book translated into English.

Les Maisons de Bricourt; Cancale

Chef Olivier Roellinger is known for his ethereal—and often startling—maritime menus.

Paul Bocuse; Collonges-au- Mont-d’Or

The original celebrity chef, Bocuse made Lyon and truffle soup famous.

Maison Pic; Valence

Anne-Sophie Pic, the first Frenchwoman in over 50 years to earn three stars, is a fish genius.

Alain Chapel; Mionnay

Chapel brilliantly updated French classics at his restaurant outside Lyon before his death in 1990.

Pierre Gagnaire; Paris

Iconoclast Gagnaire specializes in daring meals that can last as long as five hours.