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2002 Domaine d'Aupilhac Montpeyroux ($21)
A mix of power and elegance, with blackberry, beef and pepper notes, this blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan grapes puts the sleepy village of Montpeyroux on the map.
2001 Domaine Gardiés Millères ($16)
A mix of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, this Roussillon shows Jean Gardiés's great gift for making structured, concentrated and yet graceful wines. All that and no oak!
2002 Domaine La Tour Vieille Collioure Puig Oriol ($20)
Christine Campadieu's Grenache, Syrah and Carignan blend has ripe cherry and blackberry flavors, a hint of cloves and luscious, gentle tannins. It's hard to decide which is best, the scent of the Languedoc's sea air or the sound of the cork being pulled out of another bottle.
2002 Domaine La Tour Vieille Banyuls ($23 for 375 ml)
A fortified wine infused with sweet spices, offering intense flavors of fig, raisin and prune, this is France's answer to Port. Have it with chocolate or blue-veined cheeses.
2001 Domaine Piccinini Line et Laetitia ($25)
This classic Languedoc Syrah blend is well structured and rich in fruit, with soft, ripe tannins that make it approachable in its youth.
2000 Domaine Saint Andrieu Les Marnes Bleues ($22)
Winemaker Charles Giner proves that power is not everything. This subtle Grenache-Mourvèdre blend offers a fragrance of black currants and velvety mocha.
2001 Mas Champart Causse du Bousquet ($19)
A Syrah-based wine that combines depth, balance and price. No cellar should be without a few cases.
—Juan Sánchez
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