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2005 Prager Steinriegl Federspiel ($32) Toni Bodenstein, a superstar of Austrian winemaking, sources grapes for this graceful green apple-inflected wine from the famous Steinriegl vineyard, known for its white-marble- and chalk-rich soils.

2004 Marc Kreydenweiss Andlau Riesling ($20) In 1990 Kreydenweiss converted his family's Alsace vineyards to biodynamic (earth-friendly) viticulture; since then his wines, like this full-bodied, red apple-rich bottling, have become even more outstanding.

2005 Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Reserve Riesling ($25) New York's Finger Lakes are probably America's greatest Riesling region, and longtime producer Wiemer makes one of its benchmarks: dry, limy and brisk, shot through with mineral notes.