The cured salmon calls for a crisply tart white, such as the 1996 Domaine de la Maladière Montée de Tonnerre Chablis from France, or a brut Champagne, such as the nonvintage Pommery. Continue with the same wine, or switch to a dry, aromatic white, such as the 1993 Domaine Schlumberger Pinot Gris from Alsace. You can also serve a fruity, tart California red, such as the 1995 Shafer Merlot with the fondue.