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Fennel Pollen Defined

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Fennel pollen, the "it" ingredient of the moment, is wonderfully fragrant and versatile. It is a golden powder harvested from fennel blossoms that have been dried, put through a separator and sifted until fine. Common in Italy, it was recently popularized in the United States by chef Mario Batali of New York City's Babbo. Much of the fennel pollen sold in the United States is produced in Italy, but a new domestic producer, Sugar Ranch, in California, is hand-harvesting fennel pollen that has an extraordinary aroma and a particularly fine texture. If you're allergic to pollen, use ground toasted fennel seed instead. Italian fennel pollen is $19.50 for a 1.65-ounce jar at Tavolo (800-700-7336); the domestic kind is $29.50 an ounce from Sugar Ranch (800-821-5989).