Clarksdale makes an ideal base camp for exploring the Delta. The Shack Up Inn (8141 Old Highway 49 South, Clarksdale; 662-624-5756), which bills itself as Mississippi's B&B--that's Bed and Beer--rents refurbished sharecropper cabins and has a funky-chic bar next door. One must-see in the area is Po Monkey's (in Merigold, call for directions; 662-843-2712), the juke joint of your dreams. Other stops on Lomonaco's itinerary: Anderson Grocery, known locally as the Bobo Store (520 Bobo New Africa Rd., Bobo; no phone). Bourbon Mall Restaurant, also known as Sonny's (105 Dean Rd., Bourbon; 662-686-4389). Chamoun's Rest Haven (419 State St., Clarksdale; 662-624-8601). Delta Blues Museum (1 Blues Alley, Clarksdale; 662-627-6820). Kim's Pork Rinds (417 Third St., Clarksdale; 662-627-2389). Lusco's (722 Carrollton Ave., Greenwood; 662-453-5365). Oscar's Tamales (Yazoo and Fourth Sts., Clarksdale; no phone). Spooney's Barbecue (112 E. Johnson St., Greenwood; 662-455-0067). Turner's Grill, 330 Issaquena St., Clarksdale; 662-627-2884.
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