Excerpt - Choice Quote

FoodandWine Recipe

"Ham and eggs with fried potatoes, stacks of buttered toast and coffee——that was my first acquaintance with American food. It remains to this day my favorite American dish. I would pay dearly for a gulp-to-gulp moving picture of myself, seated in a New York restaurant, a hungry immigrant urchin to the core, trying to counterfeit nonchalance as I wolfed my culinary cares away." (From a 1948 essay by Angelo Pelligrini, excerpted in the new Choice Cuts: A Savory Selection of Food Writing from Around the World and Through-out History, edited by Mark Kurlansky.)

PUBLISHED November 2002

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