Editor’s Letter

© Andrew French

No matter where you live, food and wine have the power to transport you. Yesterday I took a quick trip to China via the Happy Beef Noodle House in Flushing, Queens, where I had amazing hot-and-sour chow fun soup. A couple of weeks ago, I toured France while eating and drinking at Payard Patisserie & Bistro and Bar Boulud, both in Manhattan. This wine issue brings us around the globe in a glass, stopping in Australia, Argentina, Austria, Napa Valley, Oregon and more.

For a vicarious jaunt to France, take a look at “Best Paris Wine Bars & Their Best Recipes.” The wine-bar scene has changed a lot since the ’50s, as these places evolved from bistros à vins resembling cafés to caves à manger—wine shops that also serve food. We sent contributing editor Jane Sigal to report on the newest spots and bring back fabulous recipes. One of the most delicious recipes she found was for tangy mini glazed lemon pound cakes.

In California, Deputy Wine Editor Ray Isle visited winemaker Sashi Moorman, who has come up with a strikingly simple way to get a great meal at harvest: He enlists one of his investors, the extraordinary Washington, DC–based chef Peter Pastan, to prepare dinners using wine. Pastan braises beef in Syrah and transforms Moscato Rosa into a delectable ice cream to accompany a fig-and-raspberry tart topped with bay leaves and rosemary.

Back in New York, Executive Wine Editor Lettie Teague cohosted a very different kind of wine party for her story “Wine Scams: A Counterfeiter Confesses.” As part of her investigation into the growing problem of fraudulent wines, she decided to create her very own fake, then try to pass it off as the real thing to some wine-savvy friends. Did she successfully dupe them? Find out.

Where I’m Coming From

Notes From My Recent Expeditions:

Aspen, CO
Chef Ryan Hardy’s poolside menu at the Little Nell is a greatest-hits list of casual food. I loved the maltagliata, rough-cut noodles tossed with tomatoes, basil and fresh ricotta.

Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
I wanted everything on the down-to-earth lunch menu, but settled for an outstanding grilled wild salmon BLT.

New York City

Michael White’s tortelli d’Amatrice, stuffed with tomato and guanciale (cured pork jowl), is sheer genius. And his warm seafood salad, with clams, calamari and mussels, is divine.

PUBLISHED October 2008